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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar high-end venues. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the family totally astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” says the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary honour.